Herausgeber_in: industriALL union

Zielgruppe: Student_innen, Erwachsene

Medien: Hintergrundinformationen

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Äthiopien, Bekleidungsindustrie, Existenzsichernde Löhne, Frauen in der Bekleidungsindustrie, Gewerkschaften, Lohn, Living Wage, Mindestlohn, Unternehmensverantwortung

Kurzbeschreibung:

Ethiopia’s economy has grown quickly over the last few years, from an agricultural economy to an industrializing one. The country now has one of the highest economic growth rates in Sub-Saharan Africa. Industrial parks like Hawassa are part of the government’s plan to create jobs. The Ethiopian Investment Commission touts low wages and other benefits to attract investment. The government has set up the Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute, and industrial parks have been built across the country to promote light manufacturing.

But what does the special focus given to the textile and garment sector mean for factory workers? What does it mean for union organizing? Unions are concerned that the country will replicate the mistakes of other low wage economies, undermining unions to keep wages low.

This short article gives a short overview about the situation of wages and women’s right in the garment sector in Ethiopia.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2019

Umfang: 2 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download als PDF-Datei

Herausgeber_in: Business & Human Rights Resource Centre

Autor_in: Alysha Khambay, Thulsi Narayanasamy

Zielgruppe: Student_innen, Erwachsene

Medien: Hintergrundinformationen

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Asien, Afrika, COVID-19, Corona, Einkaufspraktiken, Existenzsichernde Löhne, Gender, globale Bekleidungsindustrie, Lieferketten, Löhne, Living Wage, Menschenrechte, Produktion, Unternehmensverantwortung

Kurzbeschreibung:

This report demonstrates how the business model of fashion brands and the structure of global garment supply chains create and sustain poverty wages for garment workers. We explore how persistently low wages continue to be the foundation of the industry despite policy commitments to pay a living wage. Elements of supply chains that impact wage levels are: the indirect employment relationship with supply chain workers; the global race to the bottom on labour costs which suppress national minimum wage increases; and the unequal power relationship between brands and suppliers which allow brands to dictate the terms of production, often at the expense of suppliers.

Between August 2020 and February 2021, Business & Human Rights Resource Centre (BHRRC) approached 16 brands for a response to allegations of unpaid wages and benefits (wage theft). All brands included in the report have policy commitments to ensure workers in their supply chain are paid. Ten go further and explicitly refer to aspirations to pay a living wage, with five of these brands members of the key voluntary initiative on living wage payment, Action Collaboration Transformation (ACT). Yet the existence of voluntary initiatives on living wages has failed to result in the payment of living wages to garment workers or even an increase in the wage level.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2021

Umfang: 33 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download als PDF-Datei

Labour Minute Costing Calculators

Herausgeber_in: Fairwear Foundation

Themen:             Unternehmenskritik/Arbeitsbedingungen

Zielgruppe:        Beschaffer_innen

Medien:              Webseiten/Spiele/Multimedia/Apps

Schlagwörter: faire Beschaffung, Existenzsichernde Löhne, Lieferkette, Lohn, Living wages, Mindestlohn, Nachhaltigkeit, Soziale Verantwortung, Tipps für in der Bekleidungsbranche Tätige

Kurzbeschreibung:

Fair Wear’s Labour Minute Costing Calculators allow brands and factories to ring-fence the labour cost based on a transparent methodology for costing/pricing of goods.

For buyers it becomes possible to know if the price they pay suffice for a supplier to pay at least the legal minimum wage or CBA-agreed wage level or a living wage estimate, which supports them to fulfil their due diligence requirements. Furthermore, this way of costing enables buyers to pay for their share of any wage increase based on the total capacity minutes used for the goods they purchase.

For trade unionists engaged in collective bargaining at sectorial or factory level the calculator will support in negotiations to clarify the magnitude of the impact of a wage increase or how much extra would need to be charged to brands per product in order to implement a newly agreed-upon wage level.

The Labour Minute Costing Calculators are available for different countries which are listed on the website. The manual for the calculator is available on:
https://api.fairwear.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/Guidance-for-Use-of-the-Fair-Wear-Labour-and-Minute-and-Product-Costing-Calculator-Final.pdf

The methodology of “labour minute costing” is described on:

https://api.fairwear.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/FWF-LabourMinuteCosting.pdf

Erscheinungsjahr: 2020

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug: kostenfrei nutzbar

Exploitation made in Europe

Herausgeber_innen: Clean Clothes Campaign CCC (European Production Focus Group)

Autor_in: Bettina Musiolek, Bojana Tamindžija, Stefan Aleksić, Anna Oksiutovych, Oksana Dutchak, Georgi Medarov, Ana Vragolović

Kategorien:

Themen:             Unternehmenskritik/Arbeitsbedingungen, Wertschöpfungskette/ Globalisierung/ Welthandel

Zielgruppe:        Student_innen, Erwachsene

Medien:              Hintergrundinformationen

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, EU-Politik, Existenzlohn, Einkaufspraktiken, Frauen, Gender, Living wage, Lohn, Menschenrechte, Osteuropa, Produktionsländer, Studie, Unternehmensverantwortung

Kurzbeschreibung:

Germany is one of the world’s largest importers and exporters of garments. German fashion brands and retailers are the primary buyers of fashion items from Ukraine and Bulgaria, as well as the second most important buyers from Croatia and Serbia. For this study, workers from different suppliers of German brands and retailers in Ukraine, Serbia, Croatia and Bulgaria were interviewed.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2020

Umfang: 28 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

The Europe Floor Wage Benchmark

Herausgeber_innen: Clean Clothes Campaign CCC (European Production Focus Group)

Autor_in:            Artemisa Ljarja, Dr. Bettina Musiolek

Themen:             Unternehmenskritik/Arbeitsbedingungen

                            Wertschöpfungskette/ Globalisierung/ Welthandel

Zielgruppe:        Student_innen, Erwachsene

Medien:              Hintergrundinformationen

Schlagwörter: Asia Floor Wage, Europe Floor Wage, EU Politik, Existenzlohn, Frauen, Gender, Living wage, Lohn, Menschenrechte, Osteuropa, Produktionsländer

Kurzbeschreibung:

It seems to be widely presumed that working conditions and wages in European fashion

production are better than in Asia. The Clean Clothes Campaign has already questioned this

notion in its 2014 report Stitched up where we found out that the gap between the minimum

and actual wages of workers and an estimated minimum living wage tends to be bigger in Europe

than in Asia. In Europe-East/South it is found a comparatively low level of unionization in general

and in particular in the garment industry.

This paper summarizes and concludes discussions that the CCC’s European Production Focus Group

(Europe-East/South Group) has had in numerous meetings and calls since 2014. The intention has

been to find a methodology for a cross-border base living wage benchmark for European garment

production countries.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2020

Umfang: 27 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Herausgeber_in: Südwind e.V. – Institut für Ökonomie und Ökumene, Bonn

Autor_in: Dr. Ferenschild, Sabine

Zielgruppe:        Student_innen, Erwachsene

Medien:              Hintergrundinformationen

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Arbeitsrechtsverletzungen, Existenzlohn, Fallbeispiel, Living Wages, Mindestlohn, textile Kette, Umweltbelastung,

Kurzbeschreibung:

Am Beispiel von Indonesien, einer der zehn größten Exportnationen für Bekleidung weltweit, geht SÜDWIND in mehreren Publikationen der Frage nach, was ein „Lohn zum Leben“ dort bedeuten würde. Welche Wege könnten von der dort vorherrschenden Entlohnung (Mindestlohnniveau) zu existenzsichernden Löhnen führen?

Erscheinungsjahr: 2019

Umfang: 16 Seiten

Sprache: Deutsch

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download als PDF-Datei

Herausgeber_innen: Clean Clothes Campaign, Amsterdam; Public Eye, Zürich

Autor_in: Luginbühl, Christa

Zielgruppe:        Student_innen, Erwachsene

Medien:              Hintergrundinformationen

Schlagwörter: Asia Floor Wage, Care Arbeit, Existenzlohn, Frauen, Gender, Living wage, Produktionsländer

Kurzbeschreibung:

The global garment and footwear industry relies heavily on the work of women, who represent up to 80% of its global workforce. The current living wage debate presents both opportunities and risks for the millions of women workers in this industry. A living wage is a central enabling human right: as such, it is a powerful tool not only to improve the working situation of women workers but also to create an environment in which they can realize their full capabilities. However, if the benchmark for a living wage is set too low, it risks cementing their current situation, in which they face poverty related gender-specific consequences and multiple burdens of work, including care work, and the challenges arising from income poverty, such as the need to work overtime, engage in multiple jobs, or search for the cheapest food, all of which result in absolute time poverty. This paper therefore argues that it is imperative to adopt a gender-sensitive approach in the living wage discourse, and to look at the implications that such an approach has on the methodology of calculating a living wage and on the measures to implement it.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2019

Umfang: 23 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download als PDF-Datei

Herausgeber_in: Deloitte Access Economics for Oxfam Australia

Kurzbeschreibung:

Deloitte Access Economics has been engaged by Oxfam Australia to provide analysis of Australia’s garment industry. Specifically, Oxfam has requested Deloitte Access Economics answer two specific questions:

• Current factory wages: What is the typical share of the overall price to Australian consumers of garments produced in global supply chains which is spent on factory worker wages?

• Living wages: How much would the overall cost of bringing a garment to Australian consumers increase if a living wage were instead paid to factory workers?

• Using previous research, publicly available data, and data from several Australian businesses, Deloitte Access Economics has put together a cost structure framework of Australia’s garment supply industry. This framework represents the whole industry as an average and is not representative of a specific business or garment.

• Deloitte Access Economics has also estimated the impact on retail prices of moving towards a living wage. This analysis assumes that all players within the supply chain pass on the full cost of the wage increase. This does not answer how businesses could adjust their operations or how a living wage could practically be implemented.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2017

Umfang: 30

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug:  kostenfrei zum Download

Autor_in: Dr. Bettina Musiolek

Herausgeber_in: Clean Clothes Campaign

Kurzbeschreibung:

The H&M group is one of the world’s largest retailers with 4,801 shops worldwide. In November 2013, H&M announced that all “H&M’s strategic suppliers should have pay structures in place to pay a fair living wage by 2018. By then, this will reach around 850 000 textile workers.” At the time, those workers made 60% of H&M’s products, sourced from ‘strategic and preferred suppliers’ which H&M grades as gold or platinum. With H&M’s deadline nearing, Clean Clothes Campaign set out to check what workers were making in some of those supplier factories, and how close that was to a living wage. In our understanding, a living wage should be earned in a standard working week and allow the garment worker and her/his family to cover basic needs: food to meet nutritional needs, housing, healthcare, clothing, transportation and education, plus 10% discretionary income for savings, or protection in case of the unexpected. Our researchers spoke with 62 workers in Bulgaria, Turkey, India and Cambodia. This document highlights their key findings as well as some additional facts that shed light on H&M’s supply chain and the brand’s progress in implementing its commitments. 

Erscheinungsjahr: 2018

Umfang: 17 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug:  kostenfrei zum Download

Herausgeber_in: Fair Wear Foundation

Kurzbeschreibung:

This paper examines the application of human rights due diligence in the area of wages. In order to wage compliance to be achieved and for wages to improve, both a greater transparency in cost price negotiations between apparel buyers and their suppliers, and a precise determination of the labour component must take place.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2018

Umfang: 19 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug:  kostenfrei zum Download